P0335: Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
The ECU is not receiving a signal from the crankshaft position sensor, or the signal is erratic. This sensor is critical for engine timing — without it, the engine may not start or may stall.
⚡ Quick Summary
What Does P0335 Mean?
The crankshaft position sensor reads a toothed reluctor ring on the crankshaft to determine exact crankshaft position and RPM. This is the most critical sensor for engine operation — without it, the ECU cannot fire the spark plugs or injectors at the correct time. A complete failure causes a no-start condition. The sensor generates an AC voltage signal as the reluctor teeth pass by, and the ECU interprets the pattern of teeth and gaps to determine position.
Position sensors are critical for engine operation. The crankshaft position sensor tells the ECU the exact rotational position of the crank, enabling precise ignition timing and fuel injection. The camshaft position sensor identifies which stroke each cylinder is on (compression vs exhaust), enabling sequential fuel injection. Without the crank sensor, most engines will not start at all. Without the cam sensor, most engines can still run (using batch injection) but with reduced efficiency. These sensors typically use either a Hall-effect element or a variable reluctance (magnetic) element to read a toothed reluctor ring. Common affected vehicles: Chrysler/Dodge (crank sensor failures notorious in 2.0L/2.4L engines), GM (cam sensor failures in 3.6L V6), Ford (crank sensor heat failures in 4.6L/5.4L Modular V8), Nissan (cam sensor failures in VQ35DE).
Understanding P0335 in Depth: The crankshaft position sensor reads a toothed reluctor ring (also called a tone ring or trigger wheel) mounted on the crankshaft. As each tooth passes the sensor, it generates an electrical pulse. The ECU counts these pulses to determine both the rotational position and speed of the crankshaft. A missing tooth (or multiple missing teeth) in the reluctor ring creates a signature gap that the ECU uses as a reference point for absolute position.
There are two main types of position sensors: Variable Reluctance (VR) sensors generate an AC voltage signal whose amplitude increases with speed — they don't need power and produce a sine wave. Hall Effect sensors produce a clean digital square wave signal and require a power supply (typically 5V or 12V from the ECU). The type matters for diagnosis: VR sensors can be tested with a simple AC voltmeter during cranking, while Hall sensors require checking for power supply AND signal output.
Step-by-Step Diagnosis: (1) Check for the most common failure mode: intermittent stalling or no-start that comes and goes, especially related to temperature. A sensor that works cold but fails hot (thermal failure) is the classic crankshaft sensor symptom. (2) Inspect the sensor and reluctor ring for physical damage — cracked sensors, loose mounting, damaged teeth. (3) Check the air gap between sensor and reluctor — it should be 0.020-0.050 inches on most vehicles (check service manual). (4) Test the sensor: for VR sensors, measure AC voltage at the connector while cranking (should see 0.5V+ pulsing signal). For Hall sensors, check for 5V/12V power supply at the connector, then check for a switching signal during cranking. (5) Check wiring between sensor and ECU for damage, especially near heat sources.
Vehicle-Specific Notes: Chrysler/Dodge 2.0L and 2.4L engines are notorious for crankshaft sensor failures — the sensor is located in a high-heat area and commonly fails between 80K-150K miles. Ford 4.6L and 5.4L Modular V8 engines develop crank sensor failures from heat soak — the engine stalls after running hot and restarts after cooling. GM 3.6L V6 engines commonly develop cam sensor failures around 100K miles. Nissan VQ35DE engines can set cam sensor codes from timing chain stretch rather than actual sensor failure.
🚨 Symptoms of P0335
🔍 Common Causes of P0335
🛠️ How to Fix P0335
Replace crankshaft position sensor
Repair wiring
🔬 Step-by-Step Diagnosis
- 1 A failing crank/cam sensor often causes intermittent stalling or no-start conditions that come and go. The sensor may work when cold but fail when hot (thermal failure).
- 2 Check the sensor air gap — the sensor must be close enough to the reluctor ring to read it. An excessively worn or loose sensor can cause intermittent signal loss.
- 3 Test the sensor by measuring AC voltage at the connector while cranking — you should see a pulsing signal.
- 4 Check the reluctor ring for damage — cracked, missing, or loose teeth cause erratic signals that mimic sensor failure.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- ✗ Replacing the sensor without checking the reluctor ring — a damaged ring will destroy the new sensor's readings too.
- ✗ Ignoring intermittent stalling — a failing position sensor gets worse over time. What starts as occasional stalling becomes a no-start.
- ✗ Not checking wiring — heat and vibration can damage the wiring harness near the sensor.
💡 Pro Tips
- ★ Crank/cam sensors are cheap ($20-$80) and usually easy to replace. If the car has 100K+ miles and intermittent stalling, replacement is a good bet.
- ★ Keep a spare crank sensor in the glove box if your vehicle is known for sensor failures — it can save a tow bill.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
Can P0335 cause a no-start? ▾
Why does my car stall when hot? ▾
Is the crankshaft sensor expensive to replace? ▾
🏥 When to See a Mechanic
If the engine won't start or stalls frequently — this is a safety issue
🚗 Commonly Affected Vehicles
Based on NHTSA complaint data and community reports. P0335 has been reported in the following vehicles:
Sources: NHTSA complaints database, automotive community forums. This is not an exhaustive list — P0335 can occur in any vehicle with an OBD-II system.
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Disclaimer: This information is for educational purposes only. It is not intended as repair advice and we are not responsible for any actions you take on any vehicle. Always consult a qualified mechanic for diagnosis and repair. Repair costs shown are estimates and may vary by location, vehicle, and shop.